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France in November: Beaujolais Nouveau, Wine Auctions and the First Markets

France in November 2026: Beaujolais Nouveau on November 19, the Hospices de Beaune auction, first Christmas markets, ski openings and real weather by region.

By Aurélie, Travel Designer · Published on · 5 min read

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November is France's quietest month for visitors and one of its best for food and wine. The new Beaujolais is released on Thursday, November 19, 2026, the Hospices de Beaune hold their wine auction on November 15, truffle season begins in the South, and in the last week the first Christmas markets open in Alsace. The weather is the price you pay: gray and damp in the north, with highs around 52°F (11°C) in Paris, and the wettest month of the year in Nice.

We are based in the Beaujolais, so November is the month we see our own region at its liveliest. Here is how we use it.

New wine, a famous auction and the first truffles

Beaujolais Nouveau, Thursday, November 19, 2026. The new wine is released on the third Thursday of November, and the region celebrates from the night before. In Beaujeu and in villages across the Beaujolais, cellars and cafés open the first bottles at midnight, with music and food stalls; the next weeks bring tastings in Lyon's bouchons. In 2027 the date is November 18.

The Hospices de Beaune wine auction, November 13-15, 2026. The 166th auction of wines from the historic hospital's vineyards takes place on Sunday, November 15, with a weekend of tastings and festivities in Beaune's old town. Beaune hotels book out for that weekend; we often base travelers in Dijon or a château hotel in the Côte d'Or. Our Burgundy wine tour from Lyon explains the villages around Beaune.

Truffles. Black truffle season opens in Provence and the Périgord in late autumn. The Saturday market at Richerenches, in the Vaucluse, is the best known; it traditionally runs from about mid-November to March, but the village does not publish dates, so we confirm locally. January remains the heart of the season.

Cognac. After the harvest, the distilleries of Cognac fire up their copper stills for the winter, and the town smells of warm wine. Our Cognac getaway is a good November trip.

The Christmas season starts on November 23

The holiday markets open in the last week of the month:

  • Colmar: six markets from Monday, November 23 to December 29, 2026.
  • Strasbourg: from Friday, November 27 to December 24, 2026.
  • Kaysersberg: on weekends only, Friday to Sunday, starting November 27.
  • Marseille: the Foire aux Santons, the Provençal fair of nativity figurines, runs from November 14, 2026 to January 3, 2027 at the Old Port.

The last week of November gives you the Alsace markets with fewer crowds than in December and lower hotel rates. Strasbourg's main markets sit on flat, paved squares in the old town, but they get crowded in the evenings; for wheelchair users we plan weekday mornings and step-free hotels near the cathedral. Our guide to the Alsace Christmas markets compares the towns.

A gap month: what is closed or reduced

November sits between the summer and the winter seasons, so a few things are shut:

  • The Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix is closed from November 2 to December 18, 2026.
  • Villandry closes the château (not the gardens) from November 12 to 27.
  • Giverny and the Chaumont garden festival are closed until spring.
  • The Riviera: beach clubs are closed, and many hotels in Saint-Tropez and Provence's hill villages close for the winter.
  • Lake Annecy: sightseeing cruises run until November 30.
  • Public holidays: All Saints' Day (Sunday, November 1) and Armistice Day (Wednesday, November 11), when banks and many shops close and the President lays a wreath at the Arc de Triomphe.

The ski season opens early

The highest resorts open before December. In 2026 Tignes and Val Thorens open on November 21 and Val d'Isère on November 28. In Chamonix, the Grands Montets and La Flégère plan partial openings on November 28-29 if the snow allows. Early-season snow is never guaranteed, so we only plan November skiing in these high-altitude resorts, with a non-ski backup.

Gray north, wet south: November averages

Météo-France 1991-2020 normals (Chamonix: 1981-2010):

Region (station) High Low Rain Rainy days
Paris 52°F (11.1°C) 43°F (6.2°C) 54 mm 10
Normandy (Caen) 53°F (11.8°C) 42°F (5.6°C) 79 mm 13
Loire Valley (Tours) 53°F (11.4°C) 42°F (5.3°C) 69 mm 11
Alsace (Strasbourg) 49°F (9.4°C) 38°F (3.3°C) 48 mm 9
Burgundy (Dijon) 49°F (9.7°C) 38°F (3.3°C) 78 mm 11
Lyon 53°F (11.4°C) 41°F (4.9°C) 87 mm 9
Alps (Chamonix) 45°F (7.4°C) 28°F (-2.1°C) 101 mm 10
Provence (Carpentras) 59°F (15.0°C) 41°F (4.9°C) 91 mm 8
Riviera (Nice) 63°F (17.0°C) 49°F (9.7°C) 138 mm 9
Bordeaux 57°F (14.1°C) 44°F (6.7°C) 115 mm 13

The Riviera is still the mildest place in mainland France, but November rain comes in heavy bursts. The north is less wet in total, but gray: Paris gets only about 70 hours of sunshine in the month. By mid-November the sun rises in Paris around 8 a.m. and sets around 5:10 p.m.

The cheapest weeks of the year

After the All Saints' school holidays end on November 2, France enters its quietest weeks of the year. Hotel rates in Paris, Lyon, Bordeaux and on the Riviera are among the lowest of the year, outside big trade fairs and Paris Photo (November 12-15, 2026, at the Grand Palais). The exceptions are Beaune on auction weekend and Alsace from the last weekend of the month.

At Mont-Saint-Michel, the bay is calm: the 2026 tide table shows no "island" tides from October to December. The abbey keeps winter hours and its €13 (about $15) winter price.

Packing for damp cellars and cold markets

  • A warm, waterproof coat and an umbrella.
  • Waterproof shoes: vineyard paths and cobbled villages are wet in November.
  • Gloves and a hat for Alsace, Burgundy and the Alps.
  • A smart layer for the Beaune auction weekend dinners.

Wine-calendar itineraries

Paris and the Beaujolais Nouveau. Four nights in Paris, the TGV to Lyon, and three nights between Lyon's bouchons and the Beaujolais villages for the release night on November 19.

Burgundy for the Hospices auction, then Alsace. The auction weekend in Beaune, then Colmar and Strasbourg as the markets open, the first part of our French Christmas trip moved a week earlier.

Paris at its calmest. Seven days of museums, covered passages and long lunches, with Versailles, on our accessible Paris trip or a classic version of it.

See how November compares across the year in our best time to visit France guide, and read France in December for the full market season.

Send us your November dates and a designer will build the trip around the wine calendar: plan your trip.

Frequently asked questions

Is November a good time to visit France?

It is a good month for food, wine, cities and value. Beaujolais Nouveau, the Hospices de Beaune auction and the first truffles all fall in November, hotel rates are among the lowest of the year, and the Alsace Christmas markets open in the last week. The weather is often gray and damp, so plan indoor time.

When is Beaujolais Nouveau day in 2026?

The new Beaujolais is released on the third Thursday of November, which is Thursday, November 19, 2026, and Thursday, November 18, in 2027. Celebrations start the evening before in the Beaujolais villages and in Lyon, with the first bottles opened at midnight. Paris bars and wine shops join in the same day.

When do the Christmas markets open in France in 2026?

Colmar opens first, on Monday, November 23, 2026, and runs until December 29. Strasbourg opens on Friday, November 27 and closes on December 24. Kaysersberg's market runs on weekends, Friday to Sunday, from November 27. The last week of November is less crowded than December.

Where is the warmest place in France in November?

The Riviera. Nice averages 63°F (17°C) by day and 49°F (9.7°C) at night, compared with 52°F (11°C) by day in Paris. It is also the wettest month in Nice, though, with heavy showers on about nine days, so mix outdoor walks with museums such as the Matisse and Chagall museums.

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